Hendren, Ann [Elizabeth David]

[COOKERY MANUSCRIPT] The Compleat Cook; Ann Hendren her Book - Wrote by her son Patrick Hendren

Dublin: 1778-1794. Sewn binding. 170 pages. 32 x 21 cm.This remarkable manuscript once attracted the attention of renowned British food writer Elizabeth David, celebrated for her meticulous research and passion for acquiring cookbooks, culinary ephemera, and historical manuscripts. The manuscript comes from the estate of David’s literary executor, Jill Norman, who collaborated with David in researching "English Bread and Yeast Cookery".

Accompanying the manuscript are eleven pages of handwritten notes in the hands of David and Norman, suggesting the volume was created for the household of Joseph Goff, a prominent flour merchant residing in Newtown Park and Mountjoy Square, Dublin. Records indicate Goff belonged to the wealthy elite of pre-Famine Ireland. Notable entries include, on page 82: “Mrs Hendren Came to Mr. Goff in April tho 5th, 1787.” On page 164: “Winne Neal served as kitchen maid to Sr. Nathanel Berry the 11th May 1778, Ann Hendren as House Keeper March 21st, 1778.” And, on page 166: “Ann Hendren her Book — Wrote by her son Patrick Hendren.” The notes by David and Norman trace the lineage of Joseph Goff, his wife Elizabeth Unthank, and reference other culinary manuscripts in David’s possession.

The manuscript is penned in elegant cursive, with evidence of at least three contributors, though one hand predominates. Surveying period cookbooks, no identical recipes have surfaced, implying these may be unique or original adaptations rather than direct copies. The book commences with instructions for “paste” (akin to puff pastry), then proceeds to pastry and savory pies — such as Steak Pie, Goose or Turkey Pie, Hare Pie, Calf’s Head Pie, and others. Recipes continue with dishes for pigeons, ducks, pigs, lobsters, neat’s tongues, crabs, and pig’s feet. Cooking methods include “To Boil a Carp,” “To Stew a Rump of Beef,” and “To Hash a Calf’s Head.”

Soups follow, such as “Green Soup,” “Peas Soup,” and “Peas Soup for Fasting Days,” then proceed to sauces, pickles, and instructions for preserving foods. There are sections for puddings, jellies, jams, whips, fritters, pancakes, preserves, candies, and wines. The final twenty pages contain household recipes and remedies, comprehensive menu lists, and four illustrated menu pages — including one for “A Dinner for ye 3rd of February 1770,” the “Second Course for ye same,” “Dinner the 26th 1770,” and “Dinner the 3rd of February 1770”. Cover is hand sewn. First and last page toned, otherwise very clean for its age. Covers rubbed and soiled.

Eleven pages of handwritten notes - written on David's stationary, the back of letters, and the back of a news letter - laid in. Original Velum covered in heavy cloth. Very good. Item #4741

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